I love manoeuvring about on the lagoon practising rowing with the spectacle of snow-capped Dolomite mountains in the distance. This year, although we only experienced rain on one day when we were rowing., it was often hazy, so the mountains were less visible.
Arrival Day and a Wednesday Row
We barely had time to drop our suitcases before joining the party at Pauline and Dek’s flat. Plenty of drinks and nibbles before a lovely dinner cooked by a professional chef!
On the next day, Peter and Angela, excellent rowers who can’t resist rowing at every opportunity, took their sandolo around the small canals with all the wonderful old buildings (some of them collapsing).
When Pauline was rowing with one arm (the other being in a sling due to to a bike accident), the locals viewing from the fondamente were rather surprised!
While practising rowing in the afternoon around the usual island, we found ourselves having coffee at the rowing club on the mainland.
Our group of 12 felt even more international with the addition of French Venetian rowers Bernard and Catharine. They invited us to drinks on their rooftop altana to watch the sunset, so we raced from the boathouse to their flat near the Rialto bridge. They gave us an improved Spritz with Venetian Select and Prosecco – less sweet than Aperol, along with the spectacular sunset view. When it became chilly, we finished all the food and drink downstairs.
Thursday morning
We did a long row to St. Erasmo island where we pulled the boats up onto a sandy beach. Meriel was rather a star since she was poppiere all the way!
It was quite a hike along the coast to have drinks (again the Spritz con Select) at Chris and Anna’s island home.
We then walked back to the restaurant Bacan where the boats were moored for a fantastic pasta alle vongole.
Both presidents of Settemari and City Barge were present. John said that his name should really be “Richard” (as were previous CIty Barge presidents), and that Settemari had three ‘Luisa’s”—the smallest one is their president!
More Practise on Friday
We had another practice session in the afternoon and Peter was our teacher. He had Meriel and Laura taking it in turns at poppa doing a slalom between the briccole (wooden channel markers). In the evening we met with Row Venice who had organised to row us in their 3 batele: larger traditiona boats that are just perfect for drinks on board.
It was exciting rowing under the Rialto Bridge after dark and mooring up just beyond for an aperitivo on the Grand Canal. When we had had enough prosecco, we were taken by boat to a lovely restaurant called Ostaria Santa Fosca, which proved to be not too far from where most of us were staying. Row Venice then kindly returned the boats to the marina while we settled down in the restaurant for another scrumptious meal.
Saturday
In the morning, Pauline & I caught the vaporetto to the newly restored Redentore Garden on Giudecca, which is well worth a visit, and it had a good cafe for lunch.
For the afternoon row, we pracitsed on the lagoon. Luisa of the Settemari trained with Bernard & Laura on the Valesana rowing style: an oar in each hand. This was the only time it rained, and so everyone headed back quickly to the boathouse.
We then had a big debate as to where we would say Goodbye to our Settemari hosts and trainer friends and give them our gifts. We landed up in a favorite bar just across from the theatre supermarket. After the arrival of Bepe and Chris, we did the presentation of the Oxford mats and had many rounds of drinks and savouries.
Nan had the idea of going to Al Mariner in Cannaregio. The great thing about going out to dinner with Nan is she finds amazing food and wine and this time we tasted two desert wines.
Arrivederci
Alas – that was the end of another lovely Venetian holiday—aside from some travel problems, like the closure of Heathrow due to a substation fire which prevented Laura’s husband from joining us, and others who were not able to board the Alilaguna transport to the airport (full!)—still a small price to pay for another a brilliant Venetian visit.
—Juliet Blackburn